At Tenho the tonkotsu ramen is prepared using the yobimodoshi method, which uses the same soup stock every day and adding to it little by little, further amplifying the richness and creaminess of the broth.
Tag: nyc
High Street on Hudson
Instead of the standard-issue, coarse rock salt, Weller flecks her creation with a more delicate fleur de sel. It gently crunches without overwhelming one’s tongue, electrolyte balance, or cardiovascular system. And laced inside the bagel is a proper dose of cracked butcher’s grind black pepper. I’m calling the bagels ($2 apiece, or $4 with butter), along with the cardamom buns ($5) and black sesame kouign amanns ($5), a BUY.
Al-Aqsa
“This bread is straight from Jerusalem!” was stated at least 5 times during our stay and it could be felt how significant this was to him. Even in Palestine the bread is unique to the city, travelers from other parts buy many loaves to bring as gifts to their friends and family. The crust is soft and covered in sesame seeds, the bread inside even softer and so light. Despite being almost 1 meter long before cutting, it is not heavy and feels like it might float away.
Rent-Stabilized EV
Requests for visual descriptions yielded memories of “that old kind of toilet with the oak box,” rooms that were “all rhomboids,” and “the roaches.” Asked what they liked about their place, tenants mentioned “the cross-ventilation,” “the exposed brick,” and “the fact that the bathroom is now in the apartment.” Schiffman elicits stories from people who are both dreading a prospective rent hike and reconsidering the decision to keep a “Mao room.” A neighborhood blog, EV Grieve, runs the answers once a month, along with Schiffman’s photos.
Very Italian NYC
New York has never had a shortage of old-school red-sauce spots or exuberantly expensive odes to Italian cooking, but the last few months have seen a serious uptick in restaurants and cafés from Italians eager to introduce New Yorkers to the way Italy eats now, whether that’s sandwiches served on the Florentine answer to focaccia, strong cocktails poured in a bar bedecked in dark wood and Carrara marble, or regional cooking from Piedmont, Tuscany, and Emilia-Romagna. Here are the new molto Italian restaurants that demand your immediate attention.
Serious Eats
In 2006, when the biggest names on the internet still included MySpace and Geocities, a new site burst onto the scene that promised to be bookmarked by food nerds across cyberspace: Ed Levine — perhaps the ultimate food nerd — and his team of happy-go-lucky writers unleashed Serious Eats, and it was, in many ways, the “food blogger” trope made manifest. It didn’t take long before the site became a one-stop destination for the original deep-dive into In-n-Out’s secret menu; an exhaustive guide to Sri Lankan food on Staten Island; a column in which Levine grappled with dieting for 182 weeks; and 5000 words on perfecting chocolate chip cookies. (I interned, for free, and then freelanced for the website, though I try not to think about how little I was paid.) Now, Levine has released a new memoir and, to celebrate the site’s 12 (frequently cash-strapped) years in business, Grub Street talked to the culinary obsessives who toiled away in the site’s dumpling-strewn content mines during its earliest years.
Assume Nordic Costs
Things that are completely ridiculous at American costs – say, any future subway expansion – become more reasonable at average costs; things that are completely ridiculous at average costs likewise become more reasonable at Nordic or Spanish costs.
Fermentation Lab
While playing around with MIT’s as-high-tech-as-possible controlled environment mini labs and other prototypes, she also created more stable, robust and practical models with parts anyone can find on Amazon. They’re meant more for restaurant kitchens like at the Standard East Village where she’s already making 2 that fit the needs of their food-and-beverage outlets. “There’s something fun and punk rock about building these things, not out of garbage but out of discarded things”. She also put in a commercial dough proofer that holds koji ferments—i.e., ingredients transformed by a bacteria typically used to make miso, soy sauce and sake—at just the right temperature and humidity level.
Sarashina Horii
Centuries-old Japanese buckwheat noodle restaurant Sarashina Horii — helmed by 9th-generation soba maker and owner Yoshinori Horii — will open at 45 East 20th St., near Park Avenue South in Flatiron this July. The menu will include more than 12 noodle dishes, both hot and cold, as well as appetizers and other entrees.
Barrow’s Tasting Room
I love ginger. I love fresh ginger, pickled ginger, ginger candy chews, ginger ale, and ginger tea. So it stands to reason that I will love something called Intense Ginger Liqueur. This intimate bar has over 150 spirits, where you can taste your way through flights, craft cocktails, or sweets made in collaboration with Blue Marble Ice Cream and Li-Lac Chocolates. I’m looking forward to trying ginger-spiked cocktails.
Gregor J. Rothfuss 