
Vegan cheese has been quite disgusting to date. But not the mozzarella that I tasted. The missing ingredient has been the casein protein of milk (and until now, it could only be had from milk). Melding innovative microbial fermentation science and traditional cheesemaking, New Culture’s mozzarella is the first animal-free cheese to melt and stretch. When I tasted it, it tasted, smelled, and stretched like milk cheese. The cheese is healthier (cholesterol and lactose-free) and better for the environment: of all food products, cheese requires the most water and is 3rd in greenhouse gas emissions and land use. Producing cheese from casein fermentation rather than animal milk reduces greenhouse gas emissions, and land and water usage by orders of magnitude, making the New Culture approach radically more climate-friendly than animal farming.
2023-03-13: A bit more progress
28 companies have sprouted up to develop milk proteins made by yeasts or fungi. The companies’ products are already on store shelves in the form of yogurt, cheese and ice cream, often labeled “animal-free.” The burgeoning industry, which calls itself “precision fermentation,” has its own trade organization, and big-name food manufacturers such as Nestlé, Starbucks and General Mills have already signed on as customers.
The dairy industry, with its clout and hefty lobbying budget, may not agree there is room for everyone: In 2022, US cow dairy had ceded 16% of all retail milk sales to plant-based milk. Plant-based milk companies also may not welcome the competition, especially if cultivated dairy products are positioned as more sustainable and less resource-intensive. A glass of almond milk takes 90 liters of water to produce.
