As the population of New York continues to diversify, the city will only become a happier place when there’s a deeper bench of honest, uncompromising, and non-exorbitant places to eat. Take Llama San. It serves as proof that an excellent Peruvian-Japanese restaurant can book up just as far out as a classical fine dining temple. Or consider Haenyeo, a packed French-Korean spot that’s packed on any given night thanks to a Mexican-Korean rice cake fundido. And for those craving the meaty, milky cuisine of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna, Rezdora is happy to take your name for an 23:30 seating.

When we think of a fantastic Italian restaurant, what comes to mind? The heat of a wood-fired pizza oven, the aroma of garlic and basil on top of freshly prepared pasta, the pervasive smell of fresh clams and octopus. But what about matzah ball soup or grape leaves? What about chefs speaking Arabic, Japanese, and Sinhalese? What about grandmas from many different countries running the kitchen on a rotating schedule? In Staten Island‘s neighborhood of St. George, Enoteca Maria fuses authentic Italian fare with a taste of cuisines from all over the world, cooked by “Nonnas” (Italian for “grandmother”) passionate about sharing their culture with adventurous diners.