F&F, where the entire space boasts the caramelized aroma of faintly burnt cheese, reinterprets classic New York pizza. The offerings include “regular” cheese and tomato slices, both cut into squares from larger Neapolitan pies, and square Sicilian slices. And that’s about it for now. Scarr’s on the Lower East Side and Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint follow this same neo-nostalgic path, to stellar results. 2 early visits suggest that F&F, which finishes its slices with good sea salt and olive oil, is well on its way to keeping up with its ambitious peers.

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