Instead of the standard-issue, coarse rock salt, Weller flecks her creation with a more delicate fleur de sel. It gently crunches without overwhelming one’s tongue, electrolyte balance, or cardiovascular system. And laced inside the bagel is a proper dose of cracked butcher’s grind black pepper. I’m calling the bagels ($2 apiece, or $4 with butter), along with the cardamom buns ($5) and black sesame kouign amanns ($5), a BUY.

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