Be sure to ask for the coffee shop menu, available all day and labeled “Lunch,” otherwise you’ll just be handed a single menu featuring stir fries and relatively pricey seafood. On the more robust coffee shop menu, find the glorious staples of the cuisine in its commonest form: wonton soups, over-rice dishes at bargain prices, congee, and (only available until 13:00 or so when it runs out) rice noodle rolls. The wonton soup features thin-skinned wrinkly dumplings, bulging with a combination of pork and shrimp. Have the soup with noodles and duck, and enjoy the best bowl of wonton soup in the city, the broth stronger than usual to readily flavor the massed components in the bowl.

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