Kopitiam, an all-day Malaysian spot counters that narrative. A full meal here can cost less than a typical order of avocado toast. This is where you go for milk toast sandwiches: crustless white bread as airy as angel food cake and spread with a layer of green pandan-coconut jam that’s thicker than most burgers. The cost is $5, and the bread doubles as a dipping agent for a soup of soy sauce-spiked soft boiled eggs.

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