Tacos have nearly taken over from slices of pizza as the culinary backbone of New York City. Over the last 30 years we’ve learned to love the southern Mexican style of 2 corn tortillas flopped over a meaty filling, sprinkled with onions and cilantro. But other types of tacos have flown in the window, too, reminding us of the days when all we had were hardshells. Like your tacos rolled? Or tiny? Or with a flour tortilla? Or with a dab of guac? Freighted with organs? Or “Arabe? style — wrapped in a flour tortilla like shawarma? We’ve got ’em all, and more. Here are our favorite taquerias, curated by Eater critic Robert Sietsema. And it’s not that we don’t love chef-driven tacos, fusion tacos, or tacos produced by chains: We do! But this collection is reserved for humbler classic specimens.

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