We signed up for the “Underground Menu”, advertised as “No holds barred, no deviations” and running to as many as 26 courses. The chef Simon Rogan is possibly the most innovative chef in the UK, pushing forward concepts and ideas in molecular gastronomy more than anyone except Ferran Adria. It’s safe to say that I was more excited about this meal than anything I’ve eaten since the Fat Duck. This was “Charentais melon, horseradish, smoke”. It’s an elaborate inversion of the expected ingredients. The green ball is not melon, but actually a perfect sphere of horseradish cream, with a crisp coat, similar to a chocolate truffle with a liquid center. It was floating in melon juice/foam, dressed with drops of red salmon oil.

Molecular gastronomy at its best.

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